In this bookshop guide, Lauren Dean takes us on a tour of some of the best bookshops in Santiago, Chile. If you know a city with great bookshops, further information about contributing to the series follows this article.

At the foothills of the Andes, Santiago is a spread of gleaming towers, once glorious palacios, and grey facades that nudge up against each other in an ongoing battle for urban space. In the heart of that motley mix is a barrio (district) known as Bellas Artes, which is the seat of culture – museums, restaurants, and a lengthy and lovely stretch of park known as Forestal – but which has also been the hub of political unrest, with the recent apex occurring in 2019’s social uprising. 

While Santiago has a handful of chain bookstores, as well as many independent bookshops across the sprawling city, Bellas Artes boasts a breadth of shops within its corridors that have not only weathered the historical storms, but which pay homage to that very history.

Whether you’re in town for an extended research stay, a quick conference, or simply a few days off, this neighbourhood is the perfect place to do a walking book tour where you’re sure to be awed by the sites, surroundings, and happenings. 

Metales Pesados  

First on the tour is Metales Pesados. Opened in 2003 and named after a book by Chilean poet Yanko González (the title a nod to 90s slang), the shop has become a local icon. Here, the tightly curated selection matches the cultural and political vibe of the neighbourhood. In a single, square space, with unlabelled steel shelves lining the walls, you won’t find just any popular book that’s recently popped up.

Instead, shop owner and poet Sergio Parra, along with his book-loving staff, select each volume themselves in order to keep a collection of “good books – not books that sell best,” as I learned on a recent visit. Along with a poli-sci focus that branches out into philosophy, Chilean history, and political and economic themes of the day, the shop has its own imprint, which features photography and visual art from Latin America, making the bookshop feel like a hive of important ideas.  

In a barrio that’s used to riding out the waves, the store is an anchor, fusing the local and global through Spanish translations of relevant debates, classic world literature, and the newest prize-winning fiction. When I entered the space on an early autumn morning, the solitude – in the midst of such a thoughtful collection of ideas – made me want to stack my arms with books, sit down somewhere in the nearby park, and join the intellectual conversation.

Librería Ulises 

Next stop is Librería Ulises, tucked into a corner that you’re sure to miss if you’re not looking. On the district’s staple street, Lastarria, you’ll find crowds side-stepping the sidewalk vendors, tables filled with conversing friends, and restaurants galore. But just off the street, at the back of a curvy pedestrian plaza surrounded by buildings, hides this bookshop.  

With upper and lower levels, along with floor-to-ceiling books that wallpaper the space, this shop has a wide selection of titles in Spanish, from poetry, history, and classics to genre fiction, graphic novels, and Japanese lit. The social sciences get their very own wall to the right of the stairs, where a ladder allows access to all the volumes.

And if you’re looking for local books, there’s a section centred on Chile, but otherwise the national and international literatures can be found together throughout the well-organised shelves. On a recent visit, I was allowed to wander and wonder at my own pace as I thumbed the architecture and urbanism display. But when a specific title wasn’t available, the shop’s self-proclaimed dedication to personal attention took centre stage as they tried to track down a copy, which was long ago sold out.

El Cid Campeador 

If you’re a lover of used books, this one’s for you. El Cid Campeador opened its doors in downtown Santiago in 1986 (though not in the same location) and has remained the premiere place to find first editions, rare books, and signed copies. Not only do they buy and sell used and antique books, but you can also browse their collection online – which might come in handy if you’re not into pawing through piles at the store. 

Even getting inside this shop is a squeeze, with books stacked in precarious leaning towers. While many of the books are in excellent condition, some are missing covers or have pages hanging loose – but really, it’s all just a part of the charm. With volumes that date back to the 1800s, and a strong focus on Chilean history and politics, it’s worth venturing inside for a look. 

And if you’re seeking something specific, be sure to ask. The sections may appear haphazard, but the owners know their stock. They’ve got an extensive collection and a clear love for what they do. But be sure not to leave before opening the drawers on all the bookstands because, believe it or not, there are even more hardcovers stashed inside.  

Used Book Ferias 

Finally, before you get on the metro to head home, just outside the Universidad Católica station you’ll find a subset of one of the gems of Santiago: the used book fairs. These are outdoor stalls where book vendors set up shop each day, selling mostly paperbacks at discount prices.  

There are a good number of ferias throughout the city, but the three in this highly trafficked plaza cater to the crowd. Next to the Gabriela Mistral Cultural Center, the small selections contain art books, big literary names, spiritual wellness guides, and, of course, political works. Over the years, I’ve even stumbled on classic novels in English, which is a happy find any day. 

Note: This bookshop guide gives the views of the author, and not the position of the LSE Review of Books blog, or of the London School of Economics and Political Science.

Main image credit: Marianna Ianovska on Shutterstock.

Do you know a place with great bookshops? As part of a regular feature on LSE Review of Books, we’re asking academics and students to recommend their favourite bookshops in a particular city or town to share with our book-loving community of readers the world over.

Bookshops could be academic, alternative, multilingual, hobby-based, secret or underground institutions, second-hand outlets or connected to a university. We’d like to cover all world regions too and are particularly keen to feature cities outside of Europe and North America.

If something comes to mind, we’re looking for a brief introduction about the city, a selection of three or four bookshops with around 150 words per bookshop, detailing why each one is a must-see. Our editorial team can then find suitable photos and links to accompany the piece, though you’re welcome to supply these too.

Email us if you’d like to contribute: lsereviewofbooks@lse.ac.uk